Watches and Wonders 2024 namoki Recap Part 3 (Nomos, Zenith, Bell & Ross)
With over 54 brands showing off new timepieces during the recently concluded Watches and Wonders, there’s been an overwhelming amount of info to go through. There were conventional upgrades that the regular watch fan would be happy with, as well as some true novelties that would amaze even the most hard to impress modfam.
Our part 1 of this series looked into the brand new offerings from Grand Seiko, Tudor and Rolex, while we kicked it into high gear with part 2, which looked at releases from Panerai, Bulgari, and Vacheron Constantin. For this part of our Watches and Wonders 2024 recap series, we’re bringing it back down to Earth with timepieces from B&R, Zenith and Nomos.
Let’s dive right in!
Bell & Ross BR05 Black Ceramic
Source: A Blog to Watch
Bell & Ross has been a mainstay in the Watches and Wonders lineup, always confidently bringing something new yet familiar to their fans. This year, we saw 3 new additions to their BR05 lineup made in ceramic - a material that’s been steadily gaining popularity among luxury watch names for its hardness that’s second only to diamond, while also being lighter than steel.
Among the new ceramic BR05 models unveiled by Bell & Ross was the BR05 Black Ceramic, bringing a stealthy monochromatic look to the brand's popular integrated bracelet sports watch line. The 41mm case measures 11.2mm thick and is crafted entirely from satin-brushed black ceramic rendered in a subtle sunray pattern. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the case features the BR05's signature squared barrel shape with crown guards that give their watches an aviation dashboard instrument look. The all-black aesthetic extends to the integrated bracelet, which is crafted in matching polished and brushed black ceramic and looking absolutely sexy.
Beating inside the ceramic case is the BR-CAL.321 automatic movement with self-winding and a respectable 54-hour power reserve. It features a time-and-date display visible through the closed black sunray dial. Skeletonized rhodium-plated hands filled with white Super-LumiNova cover the hours, minutes and seconds.
Making a full ceramic watch must have been a tough assignment for Bell & Ross, but not only were they able to achieve it, they practically aced it with the BR05 Black Ceramic line up.
Modding Inspiration
The Bell & Ross collection of watches have always been visually striking thanks to their square cases that challenge the norm for watches. By moving away from round cases, they were able to distinguish themselves and refine their design with each new release. That is why we have already released two Seiko modding cases that were inspired by these cockpit style watches, allowing for some handsome pilot builds.
If you’re willing to forego the black aesthetic, sexy as it may be, you can create a BR05-inspired pilot watch that’s going to look perfect as a daily timekeeper. First you’ll have to start off with the NMK938 Square Mk.2 case, showcasing a barrel-shaped design and exposed screws to give it that Genta touch. It of course comes with a sporty integrated bracelet. Pair this with a B&R style dial and Nautilus hands for a convincing homage look.
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 2024
Source: Monochrome Watches
For Watches and Wonders 2024, Zenith unveiled the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, a bold new reinterpretation of its iconic angular DEFY watch line and the long awaited inclusion of a chronograph complication. The 42mm stainless steel case takes the octagonal shape of the original DEFY from the 1960s and modernizes it with an angular, almost geometric bezel design that you will also see in the higher end luxury tiers of horology.
The case retains the collection's signature sturdiness and 100m water resistance, while bringing more contemporary wrist proportions. The chronograph pushers appear more like crown guards rather than the more crown-resembling pushers on other sports chronographs. The screw-down crown, meanwhile, follows the sharply drawn lines of the distinctive case profile.
The open dials feature Zenith's hallmark starry sky pattern with engraved four-pointed stars that look even better if you can take a closer look. Applied rhodium-plated markers filled with Super-LumiNova mark the hours, matched to a 12-faceted chapter ring mimicking the multi-sided bezel. Conventional El Primero chronograph subdials display running seconds, chronograph seconds, and chronograph minutes.
Visible through a display caseback, the automatic El Primero 3600 chronograph movement beats at a high 36,000vph frequency to enable 1/10th second timing capabilities from the central chronograph seconds hand. The high-beat caliber also provides a 60-hour power reserve when fully wound.
Modding Inspiration
The Zenith Defy Skyline has a heritage look that was popularized by the master designer Gerald Genta - in fact it bears an uncanny resemblance to the AP Royal Oak without the exposed screws. Due to its popularity, it’s one of the trendier mods to do if you want a luxury-inspired watch and aftermarket cases inspired by it are accessible.
From our store you can get the NMK942 dive case which has the same multi-faceted case as the Defy Skyline, having sharp-featured lugs and a look that’s further enhanced by the mix of brushed and polished finishes. For the bezel choice, a similarly angular piece is ideal but you can also go with something more rounded for a bit of aesthetic contrast, like a stepped pilot bezel.
The starry sky pattern of the Zenith dial is a bit harder to match, but a possible alternative is the Oak-style waffle dial that plays with the light in the same fashion. And since the Defy Skyline is a nod to a 1960’s Zenith model, you can give your homage mod more vintage points with a straight end ladder style bracelet.
Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Date
Source: Nomos
Mechanical watches may dazzle us all with their impressive high frequency calibers and their mirror-like finishing, or their fancy new material compositions that took years to develop, but don’t you sometimes wish you can get these watches in a different color than black or polished steel? Maybe the occasional gold?
That’s what Nomos Glashütte wants to address with their colorful new collection - the Tangente 38 date that’s available in 31 different colors, one for each day of the month, including fun names like the Bubblegum and the Rambazamba.
The 31 limited editions all share the same 37.5mm stainless steel Tangente case design measuring 6.8mm thick, with signed crowns, flat sapphire crystals, and 30m water resistance. Importantly, they also use the hand-wound Caliber DUW 4101 movement with its ingenious peripheral date window positioning.
What differs is the array of vivid color combinations used for the dials, hands, and date discs. Some versions take a more subtle monochromatic approach while others veer towards the bold and playful with contrasting tones. A few even incorporate primary colors like "Stop" red and "Go" green.
Each limited edition is capped at 175 pieces to celebrate 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte. With a total of 5,425 watches, NOMOS has given collectors ample scope to find a personal favorite among the sea of vibrant hues, with probably a couple of deep-pocketed hoarders choosing to just get a Tangente 38 in all the colors instead of having to choose.
Modding Inspiration
We’re all for personalization and expressing your individuality here at namokiMODS, so we can’t help but be excited for this new collection by Nomos. If you’re not yet in the market for a two-grand watch, you can still rock a personalized and colorful watch with Seiko mods.
The modern look of the Tangente 38 is really aspirational, and while we do not yet have a watch case with similarly thin bezels, our NMK940 GS watch case comes close (in our opinion). If you are new to watch modding, you can get our NMK-WK14 Watchmaking Kit that uses this same case, and you can choose between 5 brilliantly colored dials to go with it. Our color options may not have the creative names that Nomos came up with, but they’ll look great on the wrist just the same! An alternative recommendation is NMK-WK08 Watchmaking Kit which features an Explorer-style case and comes in 5 options with different, vibrant enamel dials.
Wrap Up
And that concludes our mini recap series for Watches and Wonders 2024. These 9 watches / model refreshes caught our attention, and we hope they can serve as an inspiration for your next personalized build. After all, brands can dedicate many, many years to research how to improve on their watch line ups, but no brand past, present or future will be able to make a watch that will be for everyone. We all have our different tastes, and sometimes the only way to get a perfect watch is to make it with your own hands.
Which WnW release did we miss? Share them in the comments below! And do check out our catalog for Seiko modding parts - from replacement diver clasps to complete case bundles, we have everything you might need to assemble your ideal watch.
Got any questions about compatibility, or modding in general? You can reach us at support@namokimods.com and one of our friendly support staff will be happy to assist you.
Happy modding!