A Closer Look: The Seiko 5 GMT SSK00X
We’ve raved our fair share about the NH34 here at our blog, but we’ve made the mistake of not taking a close look at the watch that brought it to us: the SSK00x series. In the summer of 2022, Seiko released an affordable Seiko 5 GMT that received a lot of love, especially from the watch modding community because it brought the GMT complication to the entry level.
Even before this watch, people were already modding their watches with dual time inserts even with just three-handers. Seiko seems to have picked up on this and released the beautiful SSK trio. And now let’s talk about something that we should have talked about long ago: here’s our deep dive into the SSK001, SSK003 and SSK005.
Tech Specs
Source: @seikowatchusa on IG
The SSK00X series comes in three eye-catching variants: the SSK001 with a sleek black dial and black/grey insert, the SSK003 featuring a cool blue dial with black/blue insert, and the SSK005 sporting a vibrant orange dial with a black insert. Each model shares the same core design that makes Seiko 5 watches so popular.
At 42.5mm wide and just 13.6mm thick, this watch has dimensions that are quite close to the SKX007. The compact 46mm lug-to-lug length means it sits comfortably on most wrists. For those with smaller wrists, it might feel substantial, but the length helps maintain wearability. Seiko hasn't compromised on WR either, with 100 meters of water resistance to survive the rain and a soak in the pool.
Source: @mfgwatches on IG
The watch weighs 161 grams, giving it a substantial feel that watch enthusiasts appreciate. Its common 22mm lug width also means you can easily swap straps to match your style.
The 4R34 Movement
Source: Shiels
The real star of the SSK00X line is its 4R34 GMT movement. Watch lovers call this a "caller GMT" movement, which means you can independently move the GMT hand to show a different time zone. It’s an upgrade to the trusty 4R series of calibers, adding a coveted complication while only adding a few millimeters to its thickness that truly boggles the mind.
Key features include a 24 jewel count, 21,600vph, and a generous power reserve of 41 hours. It also offers a respectable accuracy of +45/-35 seconds per day which can be regulated further if you know your way around a timegrapher.
Design and Wearing Experience
Source: @seikowatchusa on IG
It may be too soon for nostalgia, but the SSK line brings it anyway. The Seiko 5 GMT is unapologetically inspired by the SKX007, from its familiar 4 o’clock crown orientation to the love-it-or-hate-it Jubilee bracelet (although the one on the SSK is much better).
People liked the Rolex approach to the bezel inserts as well, with two tones on the 001 and 003, while sensibly making the 005’s insert black all around to balance the energetic dial. And speaking of dial, the raised markers with polished surrounds stand boldly against the background, and adding a touch of bling to an otherwise utilitarian look. The cyclops might divide opinions but it still adds functionality and visual flair.
Modding an SSK
Now that a few years have passed, mod parts for the SSK are more accessible and will allow you to dress the watch up or down. One common swap that we see is a crystal upgrade to sapphire, while also going for options that don’t have a cyclops (I guess Seiko fans prefer the cleaner look). In our store you’ll find an assortment of domed and flat crystals, as well as slim crystals that will help shave off some millimeters off your watch.
We also offer “adapter bezels” that will allow you to use SKX-sized inserts with the SSK, opening it up to hundreds of choices. Of course there are also slim bezels that are a must if you are getting a slim crystal. Alternative chapter rings are also available in case you want to swap the OEM with 24 hour markers with something a bit more toned down.
And of course if you want a clean slate, you can always start your own GMT build from scratch using an SKX007-style case like the NMK901, and pick and choose all the parts you want from there. For easy reference, here is our collection of all NH34-compatible parts.
Wrap Up
Seiko's new SSK00x watch is a good mix of smart design, functionality, and value for money. They've managed to add a GMT function without making the watch too bulky or expensive. Three different color options also allow people to get one that matches their tastes, while mods help users to fine-tune it into their ideal daily GMT beater. The release was so good that Seiko even had to follow it up with the SSK02X series, but that’s for another article.
Be sure to check out our catalogue if you plan on personalizing your SSK001, SSK003, or SSK005! From major parts to spare gaskets, we have plenty to choose from to create your ideal SSK.
Happy modding!