How to Build a Vintage-Inspired Watch with Seiko Mods
Modern watches have impressive innovation and craftsmanship, but some watch enthusiasts just can’t help but go back to the tried and true appeal of vintage watches. Those classic sizes of 34-38mm and quirky design aspects like top hat crystals and square cases make us nostalgic for a time before. Just like a fine wine, a well-made watch only gets better with age.
If you’re one of the people who are into vintage watches, you may have already come to the realization that these weathered timepieces come with a premium price that not many of us can afford. But don’t lose hope! With Seiko mods, there are still ways that you can build yourself an old-timey vibe watch with brand new parts.
From subtle tweaks to complete projects from scratch, here are some ideas for a throwback watch.
Subtle Mod Options
Source: @allthetimemods on IG
If you already have a watch to start with and don’t want it to lose its identity, you can start with subtler mods that will add just a touch of throwback without making it look like you picked up your watch from an antique store. The easiest way to do this would be to add hands with a cream-colored lume.
Back in the old days, watch companies used radioactive materials like tritium or paint with radium to give it a glow in the dark function. As they degraded, they acquired a yellowish hue that we now associate with vintage watches. Today’s lume do not use these radioactive materials anymore so they will remain white after decades, but if you are after the classic-era vibe, we have handsets that come with cream-colored ‘patina’ lume in the light and glows green in the dark.
Another easy option would be to switch to a bakelite insert. Bakelite inserts became popular in the 1950s, especially with dive watches. Rolex was one of the first major brands to use Bakelite for its bezel inserts, notably on the GMT-Master reference 6542. These Bakelite inserts were preferred because they allowed the bezel to have luminous numerals, an in-demand feature for travelers and divers. These days, it is a novelty choice that will add an undeniable retro look to your watch. Once you see it in person with the light playing around the domed glass and illuminating the paint, you’ll want to build more!
Maybe you want to make your watch look like a legacy piece in a way that only fellow watch enthusiasts will catch - a good bet would be to add a top hat crystal to your build. These days, watch crystals are all about that seamless look together with the bezel and insert, but in the olden days, they were mostly used on dive watches and other tool watches because of their unique design, which allowed for better water resistance by creating a tighter seal around. The flat top of the crystal also helped with legibility, as it reduced distortions when viewing the dial from above. Rolex, in particular, used top hat crystals on models like the Submariner and Sea-Dweller during the 60s and 70s, helping to popularize this style among watch enthusiasts. Simply pop this onto your watch and you have a unique and subtle retro mod.
Building from Scratch
Source: @finemods on IG
If you’re aiming for a 50’s, 60’s, or 70’s inspired and period-correct watch, the main thing to decide on is what case you’ll use. It will be the foundation of your build and will set the overall look.
To make your planning easier, we have a range of case bundles that capture that classic look of yore but with a sparkling, brand new look. It’s as if you’re getting these vintage watches on release!
One of our most recent mid-century throwback cases is our NMK953 Polerouter-inspired bundle. The original Polerouter was a pioneering timepiece with a history in aviation, being designed to overcome the strong magnetic fields encountered during US-EU flights that go through the North Pole. We talk more about the watch here. As for our case, it faithfully captures the look of the original but with a more modern 39mm diameter for compatibility with Seiko mod parts. The bundle already includes the case, crown, and the iconic rehaut Engine chapter ring, and just looks fantastic on a leather strap.
Looking for something more dressed down? We also have Milspec cases that are a total lookalike of instrumental watches during World War II. A top pick would be our NMK931 case that was inspired by the Serica 4512, which was in turn inspired by the CYMA watch of the so-called “Dirty Dozen” - a popular collection of 12 WWII-era watches. We also have the NMK947 that harkens back to a US Military watch in the 70’s, with its most defining feature being the seamless look of the crown guard, as if it was an angular block carved out of the side of the case giving it a rugged look.
For those of you who are fans of the steel sports watch aesthetic, our NMK945 NRX Sports Watch bundle could be the vintage-inspired base you've been looking for. Integrated bracelet steel sports watches are making a comeback this year, and this case bundle blends retro charm with a modern edge, making it ideal for a sleek daily wearer that stands out. It comes almost ready to go; all you need is your favorite dial, hands, and movement to complete the build.
All in on the Aged Look
Want to take a different approach and really go for an aged look? Look no further than our pre-patinated Aged Steel cases. You can choose between an SRPE Pilot style case or an SKX Diver case, and as the name implies, it has a finish that looks like it’s seen its fair share of use already. Both come with a matching bezel and crown so you don’t have to look for those separately. When it comes to the internals (dial and hands) though, you can either choose a modern dial for an “upcycled antique” vibe or DIY the patina for the other parts for a consistent look. You can check out our patina guide for more info.
Wrap Up
Building a vintage-inspired watch through Seiko mods offers a practical alternative that saves you money compared to buying an actual vintage, while also allowing you some room for customization.
Once you have decided on the watch style, consider the elements like case size, materials and lume color - these are small details that will add to the authentic vintage look. You can also choose to go old-school all the way, or mix up retro and modern parts for a more interesting look.
If this article inspired you to have a go at your own throwback watch, be sure to check out our huge catalog of hundreds of Seiko mod parts. We have case bundles and complete watchmaking kits if you want the convenient route and just want to get started on watch modding as soon as you can. For the more advanced modders, you can also pick and choose individual parts on our store for your next full-custom build.
Happy modding!