Universal Genève Makes a Comeback with Polerouter Tribute Watches
Source: Wrist Review
Almost a year after being acquired by the ownership group behind Breitling, Universal Genève (UG) has revealed three concept Polerouter Tribute watches, giving watch enthusiasts a preview of the brand's full revival planned for 2026.
These new watches pay homage to the 70th anniversary of the first transpolar commercial flight by Scandinavian Airlines (SAS), celebrating a piece of aviation and watch history. The original Polerouter was designed by a young Gerald Genta in 1954, marking a significant moment in watch design.
The standout piece is a white gold variant with a spectacular gold mesh bracelet, handmade by master chain maker Laurent Jolliet. This special watch will be auctioned by Phillips in May 2025, with proceeds supporting a professional arts and watchmaking school in Geneva.
All three watches share a 35mm case and are powered by a refurbished UG 1-69 micro-rotor movement. The collection includes versions in white gold, rose gold, and stainless steel – though only the white gold model will be publicly available. This launch is part of a broader trend in watchmaking known as the "Revival Era," where beloved vintage brands are brought back to life. Universal Genève joins other revived brands like Aquastar, DOXA, and Nivada Grenchen, breathing new life into watchmaking history.
The original Polerouter was innovative for its time. It featured hour markers attached to the crystal and a curved dial that improved both aesthetics and functionality. These new tributes maintain that spirit of innovation, offering more than just a simple remake of a vintage design.
Breitling CEO Georges Kern acknowledges the high expectations for the brand's return. The watches hint at a high-end positioning, with potential pricing comparable to other luxury micro-rotor watches – likely between $12,000 and $25,000. Gregory Bruttin, a long-time watch industry veteran and UG collector, now leads the brand. His appointment suggests a careful approach to reviving Universal Genève, balancing historical respect with modern watchmaking techniques.
As a symbolic gesture, the white gold Polerouter will be flown on SAS flight SK 931 from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, mirroring the original 1954 transpolar route. This touch demonstrates the brand's commitment to its historical roots.
These concept watches are more than just a nostalgic look back. They represent a carefully crafted vision of what Universal Genève will become. Unlike many vintage-inspired reissues, these watches feature intricate dial details and meticulously finished movements that go beyond simple reproduction. The three-dimensional dial, precise movement finishing, and thoughtful design elements suggest that Universal Genève is aiming to position itself as a serious player in the luxury watch market.
For watch enthusiasts who have been waiting decades, this preview is surely very exciting. The full brand revival in 2026 promises to be a significant moment in modern watchmaking. Seiko modders will not have to wait long though, as they can make their own Revival Era Polerouter at home with namokiMODS’s newly released, SKX-Polerouter hybrid case.
The case is a bit larger than the original at 39mm, which ensures that it not only fits Seiko mod parts physically but also visually. The proportions have been mastered before launch, and we’re proud to see that modders are enjoying working with it so far. Alongside the release of the stainless steel and gold versions of the case are matching crosshair dials with minimalist 60 minute markers so you can create a faithful homage if you wish.
Check out our PR Collection here: https://www.namokimods.com/collections/pr-collection