Deep Dive: The so-called "Seiko Santos"
Seiko may have their fair share of original watch designs, but there are times when they ride trends and create homages of popular designs from other brands. It’s not a bad thing per se, and they always make sure to add their own flavor to the watch that still gives it a distinct identity. Some popular examples would include the Credor “Seikonaut”, which though not porthole-shaped, features screws in the bezel; or the Seiko SUR557P1 which takes after the Tissot PRX.
The watch we’ll be focusing on today is Seiko’s answer to a popular square luxury watch that came out in 1904, with reference number 8229-5019 nicknamed the “Seiko Santos.”
Don’t You Mean Cartier Santos?
Source: Beyond Watches BW
The Cartier Santos, a historical timepiece, made its debut in 1904 as one of the world's first wristwatches. Designed by Louis Cartier for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, this watch revolutionized the way people checked the time during flight.
The Santos is instantly recognizable by its distinctive square case with rounded corners, exposed screws on the bezel, and Roman numeral hour markers. Its design seamlessly blends elegance with functionality, featuring a clean dial layout and sword-shaped hands.
As one of the first few wristwatches, it’s certainly impressive how the design stood the test of time and stayed relevant even until today. This is where the Seiko 8229-5019's "Santos" moniker came from.
Design Features
Source: Tourbillon12 on Reddit
The Seiko Santos’ design leans in the sportier side, unlike the more dressy look of the Cartier Santos. That doesn’t mean it’s not fit to be worn on exclusive occasions though, as it certainly has enough class to pair with formal attire.
Its case, crafted from high-quality stainless steel, measures a versatile 36mm in diameter – a size that suits a wide range of wrist sizes up to 7.75 inches. The case shape is characterized by smooth edges that give the watch a subtle yet distinctive presence. The gold octagonal bezel makes it a two-tone, a certified 80s trend. It also features integrated bracelets, with links that are adorned by gold dots near the edges. Unusual and very retro!
The white dial is rather clean with the Seiko Quartz logo and “100” text signifying its water resistance rating. On the hour markers are gold, applied indices that match the lumed handset.
Movement
The Seiko 8229-5019 features the 8229 quartz calibre. You already know how accurate these calibers are, but for reference, it has a beat rate of 32,768Hz and keeps an accuracy of less than 15 seconds per month. It also has a battery life of 5 years before needing replacement. This movement also powered other notable retro Seiko watches like the Silver Wave, but is perhaps best known for its use with the Seiko SQ Sports 100 models.
Collectability
If you search for this watch, you will also find listings that call it the “Seiko Royal Oak,” which will probably cause some confusion as aside from the bullets on the bezel resembling the screws on the AP Royal Oak, there is not much similarity between the two. We’d say it’s even closer to the Nautilus than the Royal Oak! The misnomer might have been caused by a mixup with the ref. 8229-801A, which is in the same SQ Sports 100 family as the Seiko Santos.
The Seiko Santos occupies an interesting niche in the watch market. Priced typically at less than $300, it’s a compelling value proposition for Seiko fans and vintage collectors. That’s a fraction of the price of a Cartier, and dare we say more charming in some aspects. You’d be lucky to find a surviving specimen in mint condition though - despite its retro charm, the units you’ll find sold in the secondary market come with the regular patina of an 80s watch. It’s unfortunate that it was not as popular during its release, perhaps overshadowed by more captivating offerings from other brands, and perhaps due to the quartz movement, but it’s a beautiful watch regardless.
Can You Mod A Seiko Santos?
Try googling Seiko Santos mod and you’ll find what is basically a replica of the Cartier Santos with a fake Seiko branded logo. Being a vintage watch, and an obscure one at that, there are currently no mods available to refresh an OEM 8229-5019, nor are there parts that will let you build a faithful homage for it, unfortunately.
If you’re determined to build a similar looking watch though, we can recommend our NMK938 Square case, which is a sports watch case designed in the same vein as the Seiko Santos - you’ve got a case with soft edges, an integrated bezel with decorative screws, and an integrated bracelet, albeit missing that iconic two-tone. It’s best to pair this with a white dial, with a strong suggestion for the California white dial that adds to the retro vibe. Finish this off with slender hands like the Oak Steel and you have yourself a Santos-like square sports watch build!
Wrap Up
The Seiko 8229-5019 "Santos" is a cool piece of Seiko history. It shows how Seiko could make watches inspired by famous designs while still keeping their own style. This old-school watch, with its square shape, gold and silver look, and built-in bracelet, really captures the 1980s vibe. While it may not have achieved widespread popularity during its initial release, the Seiko Santos is now a rare collectible that no doubt many Seiko fans would be happy to have.
Though we do not have parts that will let you create a spitting image of an homage, we have the parts that will let you reimagine the watch to your specific tastes. Aside from this square sports watch, we also have watch mod parts that will allow you to build other retro-inspired watches, like our NMK945 Sports Case, NMK940 GS-Inspired case, and more. Be sure to check out our entire catalog and build your dream watch!
Happy modding!