As a curious watch enthusiast, you may be aware of the history of timekeeping: it started with sundials, which evolved to hourglasses, to early mechanical watches after the invention of the mainspring, which then evolved to the wristwatches that we enjoy today. Since the invention of the first mechanical timepieces in the 14th century, watchmakers have continuously refined their craft, leading to two primary types of movements common in today’s watches: hand-wound and automatic.

 

Source: Faces of Ancient Europe

 

Hand-wound movements, also known as manual movements, require the wearer to physically wind the mainspring using the crown. Automatic movements on the other hand, harness the natural motion of the wearer's wrist to wind the mainspring, offering convenience and constant power. The latter is the one more commonly used for Seiko modding.

Both types of movements have their merits and drawbacks. In this article, we'll explore the pros and cons of both movements to help you determine which might be the better choice for you.


Hand-Wound Movements

Source: We Clark Watch Repairs

 

How they work

Hand-wound movements are the original form of mechanical watch movements. At their core is a mainspring, which stores energy when wound. This energy is then released gradually through a series of gears and the escapement, powering the watch's functions. The wearer must manually wind the watch, typically once a day, by turning the crown 30 to 40 times (which takes around 2 minutes). This action tightens the mainspring, storing potential energy that will be used to keep the watch running.

Advantages

Source: Gear Patrol

 

One of the primary advantages of hand-wound movements is their slimmer profile. Without the need for a rotor (the oscillating weight in automatic watches), these movements can be made thinner, allowing for more elegant and dressy watch designs. This slimness is particularly prized in high-end dress watches and vintage-inspired timepieces.

Hand-wound watches also offer a more traditional and classic appeal. They take you back to the early days of watchmaking, appealing to purists and those who appreciate watch history. Many collectors find joy in the daily ritual of winding their watch, viewing it as a moment of connection with their timepiece.

Perhaps the most significant advantage for enthusiasts is the direct interaction with the watch mechanism. The act of winding allows the wearer to feel the resistance of the mainspring, providing a tactile experience that automatic watches can't replicate. This interaction fosters a deeper appreciation for the mechanical marvel on one's wrist. Somewhat ironically, this kind of movement, which requires you to go through extra steps to work, are sometimes purposefully used for luxury watches.

Disadvantages

 

The primary drawback of hand-wound movements is the need for daily winding. Forgetting to wind the watch will cause it to stop, requiring the time to be reset. This can be inconvenient, especially for those with busy lifestyles or those who own multiple watches. It’s a good thing that most of us carry a phone around as a spare timekeeper!

There's also a small risk of overwinding, particularly with vintage pieces. While modern hand-wound movements often have safeguards against this, applying too much force when winding can potentially damage the movement in older or cheaper watches.

Lastly, hand-wound watches typically have shorter power reserves compared to their automatic counterparts. Most range from 40 to 80 hours, meaning they may not last through a long weekend off the wrist without stopping.


Automatic Movements

How they work

 

Automatic movements, also known as self-winding movements, operate on the same basic principles as hand-wound movements but with an addition: the rotor. This semicircular metal weight is attached to the movement and rotates freely as the wearer moves their wrist. The rotor's motion winds the mainspring, converting kinetic energy from everyday arm movements into potential energy stored in the mainspring.

This self-winding mechanism ensures that the watch maintains power as long as it's worn regularly, eliminating the need for daily manual winding. These movements are particularly popular in the Seiko modding community due to their reliability and the wide availability of compatible Seiko mod parts.

Advantages

 

The primary advantage of automatic movements is their convenience. Once set and worn, these watches continue to run without requiring daily attention from the wearer. This "set it and forget it" nature makes automatic watches particularly appealing to those who want a mechanical timepiece without the commitment of daily winding.

Automatic watches also maintain more consistent power when worn regularly. The constant winding helps to keep the mainspring at an optimal tension, which can contribute to more stable timekeeping. This consistent energy flow can be especially beneficial for watches with complications that require additional power, such as chronographs or perpetual calendars.

Another advantage is the potential for longer power reserves. While this varies by movement, many modern automatic watches offer power reserves of 70 hours or more, allowing the watch to continue running even if left off the wrist for a few days.

The rotor also allows for further customization especially for Seiko’s NH movements that are commonly used for modding. Aftermarket rotors, like our popular Golden Great Wave and Steel Asanoha Pattern, are prime examples of Seiko mod parts that add flavor to the rather dull original rotor..

Disadvantages

 

One of the main drawbacks of automatic movements is their thickness. The addition of the rotor mechanism necessitates a thicker movement, which often results in a thicker watch case. This can be a concern for those who prefer slimmer, more elegant timepieces or for those with smaller wrists. Automatic watches can also be less accurate if not worn consistently. When left stationary for extended periods, the decreasing tension in the mainspring can affect timekeeping precision. Additionally, the rotor can add a slight amount of noise to the watch, which some wearers may find noticeable.


Wrap Up

Whether you prefer hand-wound or automatic movements, both types offer unique advantages and can be excellent choices for watch enthusiasts. For those interested in customization, automatic movements are often favored in the world of Seiko modding, with a wide range of Seiko mod parts available to create truly unique timepieces.

Aside from changing the rotor of your movement, you can also customize each and every part of your watch! You can opt for subtle changes like swapping the bezel insert, or maybe even something as simple as putting on a new bracelet. Or you can go for something noticeable like an entirely new dial and hands! However you’d like to mod your watch, we have the high quality Seiko mod parts for it. So be sure to check out our huge catalog for your next watch build!

Happy modding!

15 septiembre 2024 — Jeremiah A

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