Rolex's MilSub and How to Make an Homage with Seiko Mods
Military-inspired dive watches, or MilSubs, have been a favorite look among watch fans for years. It’s a dive and a tool watch combined into one, built to be durable and with purpose, as if it was conceived out of necessity.
A "MilSub," short for "Military Submariner," is a special breed of dive watch that was never available to the general public. Unlike standard Rolex Submariners, these watches were created and distributed exclusively for military use, making them highly sought-after collectibles today. You’d have to shell out hundreds of thousands of dollars if you want to add one to your stash.
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While classics like the Rolex Submariner come with hefty price tags, many watch enthusiasts are turning to Seiko mods to create their own MilSub-inspired designs without the steep cost. In this article, we'll break down what makes MilSubs special and give you some tips for how to build your own.
But first, let’s define them a bit more.
Is MilSub and MilSpec the same?
There’s a common confusion between Milsub and MilSpec watches.
MilSub specifically refers to dive watches designed for or issued to military forces, often based on the Rolex Submariner. They typically feature unique military-requested modifications to civilian models.
MilSpec, short for “Military Specification," is a broader term that refers to any watch meeting official military standards for durability, reliability, and functionality. MilSpec watches can be dive watches, field watches, or other styles, as long as they conform to military requirements.
Not all MilSpec watches are MilSubs, but all genuine MilSubs would meet MilSpec standards.
What is a MilSub Watch?
The Rolex MilSub was specifically issued to Cold War era military divers, including those involved in shallow "clearance" diving and deeper minehunting operations. The 1972 BR 2806 Military Diving Manual, or "Diver’s Bible," even lists Rolex watches as part of standard-issue equipment, noting their impressive durability down to 200 meters.
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Typical features of MilSub watches include:
- Strong water resistance (200m or more)
- Clear, easy-to-read dials with large indices and hands
- Rotating bezels for tracking dive times
- Tough stainless steel cases
- Secure straps like NATO or Zulu styles
- Military-style elements like fixed spring bars or sword hands
Among MilSubs, the Rolex Submariner Reference 5517, made exclusively for the military, stands out due to its rarity and unique features like fixed spring bars and a full minute-marked bezel. The Rolex 5513, however, is considered the "Holy Grail" for collectors, with only around 1,200 pieces made for the Royal Navy in the 1970s, many of which have not survived in their original form.
More About the Rolex Submariner 5513
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This 40mm stainless steel watch has achieved a near-mythical status among collectors. It’s undeniably a handsome watch, and it surely factors into the reason why the watch is a must-have, but the origin story also contributes greatly to its desirability.
By the 1950s, Rolex was already a top name in dive watches. In 1957, Britain’s Ministry of Defence (MOD) started using the Submariner for its military divers. But soon, the MOD wanted something more tailored for Navy needs and asked Rolex to make specific modifications—a rare occurrence for such an iconic brand!
Rolex made several changes: a larger, more readable bezel with 60-minute markers that was easier to turn while wearing gloves, stronger fixed strap bars that could only be used with NATO straps, and bigger sword hands for better visibility. These upgrades, including the use of tritium for glow-in-the-dark elements, created a unique watch built for rugged military use.
Add to that a limited release and you have an auction-superstar.
Notable Milsub Homages
Tudor Pelagos FXD
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The Tudor Pelagos FXD reinterprets the classic MilSub design, crafted in partnership with the US Navy’s SEAL Team Six. This 42mm dive watch boasts a brushed titanium case with fixed spring bars, a nod to its military roots and ensuring that the watch stays securely on the wrist when braving the ocean depths. Naturally, it features a 60-click unidirectional bezel, designed for precise dive timing based on feedback from Navy divers.
Under the hood, the chronometer-certified Tudor caliber MT5602 powers the watch, proving it as a reliable and accurate timepiece. The black dial with Tudor's signature snowflake hands enhances underwater readability while also making for a classic watch face. Paired with a unique forest-green and red textile strap, the Pelagos FXD hints at its military connections without being overt. This balance between military heritage and modern design makes it a hit with both military buffs and everyday watch fans alike.
Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military
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The Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military (OVM) is a more accessible homage to the rare Rolex Submariner ref. 5517 MilSub. This 42mm stainless steel dive watch captures the spirit of its inspiration with a black dial accented by “Old Radium” lume and a design that mirrors the Submariner’s layout, complete with sword hands and large markers with vintage lume. Additional features include a domed sapphire crystal, a unidirectional bezel marked with minute indicators, and a solid 300 meters of water resistance.
Inside, it houses the ETA 2824-2 automatic movement that runs on a 28,800 beat rate and a decent 38 hours of power reserve. Priced around $400, the OVM offers a budget-friendly alternative that doesn't skimp on quality or style.
Can you build a Milsub Homage with Seiko Mods?
Yes you can! It’s quite easy if you would think of it this way: you are making a Submariner, but with a few tweaks to turn it into a MilSub homage. These changes that you need to make have already been mentioned in the earlier sections, but let us reiterate them in the context of Seiko mods.
To start, you’ll need the usual parts for a Sub mod: for the case, get our NMK909 Submariner case in steel finish. A Sub-style bezel and black ceramic insert are also a given. The Vintage Divemaster dial is highly recommended and must be paired with our Sword watch hands with patina lume. A double domed crystal with no bevel edge and a brushed chapter ring will complete the watch face. Finish it off with a regular caseback for 200m of water resistance, and lastly, put on a NATO-style strap and you have a MilSub Seiko mod!
That’s how you can do a faithful homage, but there are other part options to add your personal style to your build. For case alternatives, the NMK941 is a different Submariner-style case that will allow you to build a GMT MilSub, while the NMK915 is a similar-looking case but with a more Seiko feel. For the bezel and insert, you can play around with the finish to give your MilSub build a two-tone look, or you can even use our slim Sub bezel for a sleeker watch. Also, you can make it classier with an Oyster bracelet, if you’re not that into NATO straps.
Remember that homages don’t need to look 1:1 to be recognizable. As long as you have the defining characteristics of the watch down, you can make your own customizations!
Wrap Up
The Rolex MilSub is a storied watch that is no longer just a timepiece, but a piece of history. Very few watches have as interesting an origin as the reference 5513 and its sister models, which merits its eye-watering but unsurprising price of today.
If you’re one of the fans who’d love to have this watch but just don’t have the resources, you might opt to get an homage watch from a different brand instead. Another option you have is to build it yourself with Seiko mods. Like how the Ministry of Defense tailor-made the Submariner to get the perfect watch for their requirements, you too can personalize the watch to suit your specific style and needs.
Don’t forget to check out our catalog of hundreds of premium Seiko mod parts that are tried and tested by thousands of watch enthusiasts. We have everything for watch modders of all levels, from the beginners to the professionals, so give our shop a quick browse, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions.
Happy modding!