Bell & Ross is no stranger to using bronze in their dive watches, having first introduced a bronze diver back in 2018. They continue this tradition with their latest limited edition BR-03-92 diver, featuring a new emerald green and black color palette.

 

The choice of bronze connects these watches to ancient maritime history. As an alloy composed mainly of copper, bronze was used in shipbuilding and diving equipment over 2000 years ago thanks to its corrosion resistance. Bell & Ross smartly references this heritage by engraving an old diving helmet on the stainless steel caseback.

Beyond nods to history, bronze makes sense for a modern dive watch due to how it ages. The copper undergoes a natural oxidation process over time that lends the metal varying brown and green patinas. These changes reflect the lifestyle and environments the watch is subjected to - frequent ocean exposure will age the case differently than mostly city wear. The case can also be polished to maintain shine if desired. The specific bronze used here (92% copper, 8% tin) aims to resemble early nautical bronze pieces.

The familiar Bell & Ross diver case shape remains intact. Inspired by aircraft cockpit dashboards, the iconic 42mm squared circle case delivers 300m water resistance thanks to an updated black unidirectional bezel that contrasts nicely with the green dial. Inside beats the BR-CAL.302 movement, an automatic mechanical caliber with 54-hour power reserve.

 

 

While not a radical change to their diver formula, the shifted color scheme and bronze material make this watch distinctly Bell & Ross. Staying fiercely consistent to their aviation and tool watch inspired aesthetic over the years has cultivated an identifiable brand image that alienates some and resonates profoundly with others.

Bell & Ross likely doesn't intend for this bronze diver to achieve mass appeal. With its 43mm size and focused identity, this watch caters to loyalists taken by the brand's specific bold styling. Those able to pull it off will enjoy a striking bronze case that accumulates a record of their adventures.

 

 

The appeal lies largely in the idea of the bronze itself rather than any groundbreaking innovations. Still, there's certain poetry to wearing a watch that visibly logs your own personal history through accumulating patina. Much like polishing old pennies as a child to observe their renewal, allowing bronze to age gracefully has an alluring sentimentality.

This makes the watch a romantic notion more than a must-buy proposition. But Bell & Ross stays true to form nonetheless, offering devotees a distinctive new take on their aviation-inspired diver.

 

Image Sources: @bellrosswatches on IG

27 février, 2024 — Jeremiah A